Her bright suits and bold hats put the Duchess of Cambridge’s nude court shoes in the shade. The Queen may have turned 90, but there is little doubt she is still the ultimate style icon, as a new exhibition at Buckingham Palace from tomorrow reveals.
女王亮眼的套裝和大膽出挑的帽子讓凱特王妃那雙裸色高跟鞋黯然失色。女王已經(jīng)九十，但毫無疑問她仍是永不過時(shí)的時(shí)尚偶像。這一點(diǎn)可以在七月二十二日起在白金漢宮舉辦的一場(chǎng)女王服裝展覽中展現(xiàn)出來。

Her Majesty wears jewel-coloured outfits to ensure she can be seen by her subjects - and even uses them as a tool of diplomacy. Who knew that she dresses to echo the flag of the country she is visiting so as to flatter her hosts, and sometimes even has their national emblem sewn into them.
為了讓她的國民能清楚地看到她，女王一直身穿寶石色的套裝，甚至還將這些套裝作為一種外交工具。為了對(duì)接待她的國家表示友好，她會(huì)穿與那個(gè)國家國旗顏色一樣的套裝，甚至有時(shí)會(huì)將那個(gè)國家的國徽縫在衣服上。

Fashioning A Reign: 90 Years Of Style From The Queen’s Wardrobe shows off almost 80 of her outfits and 62 of her iconic hats. Here, we take a look at a glorious selection...
“造就一個(gè)朝代：女王衣櫥時(shí)尚九十年”展示了近80套套裝及62頂標(biāo)志性的帽子。接下來，我們來看看其中的幾套精選服裝。

THE ONE-SHOULDERED DRESS
露肩禮服

Made from duchesse satin, lace, sequins, diamante and beads, this asymmetric crinoline-skirted gown of pale yellow and turquoise - made by Sir Norman Hartnell, her favourite couturier of the time - is a perfect example of the Queen’s Fifties fashions.
這件淺黃與寶綠色相襯的露肩膨鼓裙禮服是諾曼?哈特內(nèi)爾設(shè)計(jì)并完成的，用全絲硬緞、花邊、珠片、鑲鉆、及綠松石制成。哈特內(nèi)爾是女王當(dāng)時(shí)最欣賞的設(shè)計(jì)師。這件禮服是上世紀(jì)五十年代女王時(shí)尚最完美的代表。

Worn on a state visit to the Netherlands in 1958, it features a one-shouldered bodice, the line of which is continued by a gathered panel of satin across the skirt.
女王身穿此禮服于1958年出訪荷蘭。禮服的特點(diǎn)是其露肩的連衣裙上身，全絲硬緞的鑲片將肩部線條延續(xù)到整條裙子上。

The dress is appliqued with tape lace forming stylised floral motifs and is richly embroidered with heavy beading.
裙子上還飾有帶有風(fēng)格化的花朵圖案的長(zhǎng)條蕾絲并且鑲滿了珠子。

This, says the Royal Collection, is another perfect example of the Queen’s unique championing of British couture.
英國皇家收藏信托表示，這件禮服也完美地展現(xiàn)了女王對(duì)英國女士時(shí)裝的支持。

THE INVESTITURE OUTFIT
授權(quán)儀式服裝

An ensemble that bears all the hallmarks of Sixties fashion: the princess-line coat hides a tunic as well as an underdress.
這是一套具備了所有六十年代時(shí)尚特點(diǎn)的服裝：公主線外套遮蓋住了女士短上衣和襯裙。

Made in a striking pale primrose yellow, the silk outfit also includes pearls, bugle beads and embroidery on the cuffs, collar and hem.
這件淡黃色的絲綢外套的袖口、衣領(lǐng)和下擺處縫有珍珠和玻璃小珠，并帶有刺繡。

The most interesting thing about it, however, is the matching hat made by a favourite milliner of the time, Simone Mirman.
然而，最有趣的還數(shù)與之相配的帽子是由當(dāng)時(shí)最受歡迎的女帽設(shè)計(jì)師西蒙娜?米爾曼制作的。

Her Majesty took inspiration from the medieval age, which suited the surroundings of Caernarvon Castle, where the Queen was investing her son and heir, Prince Charles, as Prince of Wales in July 1969.
她的靈感來源于中世紀(jì)。1969年7月，女王在卡那封城堡授予她的兒子即繼承人查爾斯王子以威爾士親王的頭銜。她的靈感與卡那封城堡的環(huán)境很相配。

The section at the back of the hat represents a ‘caul’, a form of head-dress covering the hair and hung down over the neck.
帽子后面部分采用了“發(fā)網(wǎng)”這一形式，即一種覆蓋頭發(fā)并自然垂下至頸部的發(fā)飾。

‘The philosophy behind the design is that the Queen would largely be seen from behind as she placed the coronet on the prince’s head, so having good design from the back was just as important as the outfit looking successful from the front,’ says exhibition curator Caroline de Guitaut.
展覽負(fù)責(zé)人卡羅琳?德?吉托說：“這樣設(shè)計(jì)是因?yàn)楫?dāng)女王將小冠冕授予王子時(shí)，大部分時(shí)間大家只能看到她的背影，所以帽子從后面看起來好看和服裝從前面看起來完美一樣重要?！?

THE OFFICIAL PORTRAIT GOWN
官方肖像照禮服

With its crinoline-style skirt, nipped-in waist and sweetheart neckline, this gown - a highlight of the exhibition - is a perfect example of the Queen’s style in the Fifties.
這件有裙撐，腰部收緊，雞心領(lǐng)的禮服是此次展覽最精彩的部分。它是女王五十年代時(shí)尚的完美展示。

Made by Sir Norman Hartnell, the Queen wore it in 1956 for a series of official portraits taken by Baron Studios.
在由男爵工作室于1956年拍攝的一系列官方肖像照中，女王就穿了這件哈特內(nèi)爾設(shè)計(jì)的禮服。

It was fashioned from oyster-coloured duchesse satin and gold lamé, embellished with diamante, pearls, sequins and beads in tones of gold and silver.
它用牡蠣色的全絲硬緞和金銀錦緞制成，裝飾了深淺不同的金銀色鑲鉆、珍珠、亮片和小珠子。

‘This is about beauty, about the best of British, about elegance,’ says Caroline de Guitaut. ‘It is another superb example of British couture, which the Queen champions.’
吉托認(rèn)為“這件衣服代表了美，代表了英國最好的一面，代表了優(yōu)雅，是女王所支持的英國女士服裝的又一優(yōu)秀范例?！?

GOWN FIT FOR A HISTORIC VISIT
歷史性訪問場(chǎng)合禮服

Designed by Savile Row’s Hardy Amies, the Queen first wore this turquoise dress in 1965 when she became the first British head of state to visit Germany after World War II. It is made from organza silk, sequins, silver thread, beads and pearls and was worn to an official state banquet.
薩維爾街的哈迪?埃米斯設(shè)計(jì)了這件禮服。1965年，女王出訪德國時(shí)首次穿了這套藍(lán)綠色的衣服。當(dāng)時(shí)女王是首位二戰(zhàn)后出訪德國的英國首腦。這件衣服的材質(zhì)有歐根紗、閃光裝飾片、銀線、珠子和珍珠。女王穿著這件禮服參加了國宴。

The ornate embroidery over the bodice was inspired by the Rococo interiors of the palaces at Schloss Bruhl, which Amies researched prior to the Queen’s visit.
禮服上半身的華麗刺繡的靈感來源于德國布魯爾城堡內(nèi)部洛可可風(fēng)格的室內(nèi)設(shè)計(jì)。埃米斯在女王出訪前特意做了一番研究。

Her Majesty loved the dress so much so that (with her usual eye for economy), she wore it again for an official portrait by Cecil Beaton in the White Drawing Room at Buckingham Palace in 1968.
女王十分喜愛這件裙子，再加上她不鋪張浪費(fèi)的觀念，1968年在白金漢宮白色會(huì)客廳由塞西爾?比頓幫她拍攝官方肖像照時(shí)，她再一次穿上了這件衣服。

THE QUEEN’S WEDDING DRESS
女王的結(jié)婚禮服

When commissioned to design Princess Elizabeth’s 1947 wedding dress, Sir Norman Hartnell set out to produce ‘the most beautiful dress I had made so far’. His magnificent creation is in ivory silk, decorated with crystals and 10,000 seed pearls.
當(dāng)哈特內(nèi)爾被任命設(shè)計(jì)1947年伊麗莎白公主的結(jié)婚禮服時(shí)，他就開始著手做這件“有史以來做過最漂亮的裙子”。這件華麗的設(shè)計(jì)采用了乳白色的絲綢，并用水晶和一萬粒珍珠點(diǎn)綴。

The accompanying shoes are tiny. Her shoe size has never been officially revealed, but is believed to be a two-and-a-half to three.
配套的鞋子很小。女王的鞋碼從未正式公布過，但一般認(rèn)為是英碼2.5碼-3碼左右。

THE CORONATION DRESS
加冕儀式服裝

The Queen’s 1953 Normal Hartnell-designed Coronation dress is regarded as a tour de force of British design.
這件由哈特內(nèi)爾設(shè)計(jì)，女王1953年登基加冕時(shí)所穿的禮服被認(rèn)為是英國設(shè)計(jì)的巔峰之作。

The duchesse satin gown, which took eight months to design and create, features national and Commonwealth floral emblems in gold and silver thread, encrusted with seed pearls, sequins and crystals. It had to be reinforced to support the weight of the embroidery. Unbeknown to the Queen, Hartnell added a four-leaf shamrock on the left of the skirt for luck, and was delighted to see her hand brush it as she walked into Westminster Abbey.
這件全絲硬緞的禮服花費(fèi)了八個(gè)月的時(shí)間來設(shè)計(jì)并且制作，用金銀絲線繡上了英國和英聯(lián)邦的代表花朵，外面裝飾有珍珠、亮片和水晶。為了能夠撐起外面這么多的裝飾，哈特內(nèi)爾還加固了這件衣服。女王不知情的情況下，哈特內(nèi)爾在裙子左側(cè)加了一株四葉草，以求幸運(yùn)之神眷顧女王。而且令他高興的是，女王在走入威斯敏斯特教堂時(shí)，擺動(dòng)的手拂過了這株幸運(yùn)草。

‘The Queen wanted a dress that would stand up to the occasion - it was the first coronation fully televised - and the dress she chose was the eighth of nine he sketched. It is timeless,’ said exhibition curator Caroline de Guitaut.
吉托說：“女王想要一件能鎮(zhèn)得住場(chǎng)面的禮服，畢竟這是第一次全程直播的加冕儀式。女王在哈特內(nèi)爾的九張手稿中選擇了第八件。它是永恒的?！?/p>

THE QUEEN’S JUBILEE STYLE
周年慶典服裝

One section of the exhibition is devoted to an example of the Queen’s style from each decade of her life - and this green Hartnell silk dress is typical of the Seventies.
展覽有一部分是每十年女王穿衣風(fēng)格的展示。這件哈特內(nèi)爾設(shè)計(jì)的綠色絲綢連衣裙是典型的七十年代風(fēng)格。

Along with a matching silk and straw Simone Mirman hat, it was worn by Queen on several occasions during her Silver Jubilee tour in 1977, when she travelled the length and breadth of the United Kingdom before heading overseas.
1977年迎來了女王的二十五周年紀(jì)念之旅。在她出訪海外前，她游遍了整個(gè)英國。在這期間，她多次穿著這件衣服，同時(shí)佩戴了米爾曼設(shè)計(jì)的絲綢草帽。

The soft silhouette, bow-tie neck and floral print silk are all hallmarks of Seventies design.
柔和的線條、蝶形領(lǐng)結(jié)、花朵圖案的絲綢都是七十年代設(shè)計(jì)的標(biāo)志。

‘There is a strong print, and the dress is made of lightweight silk for the sake of practicality,’ observes the curator of the exhibition..
展覽負(fù)責(zé)人說：“出于實(shí)用考慮，裙子使用了輕薄的絲綢，還配上了濃烈的印花。”

THAT OLYMPIC DRESS
奧運(yùn)禮服

Among the most globally recognisable outfits on show is the dress worn by the Queen at the London 2012 Olympics Opening Ceremony.
女王在2012年倫敦奧運(yùn)會(huì)開幕式上穿的衣服也在展覽之列。這套衣服全球聞名。

The gown was designed by the Queen’s senior dresser, Angela Kelly, and made from silk in a peachy-pink colour, embellished with lace, sequins and beads, with matching feather fascinator.
這件禮服由女王的資深造型師安吉拉?凱莉設(shè)計(jì)，用桃粉色的絲綢做成，加上蕾絲，亮片和珠子的裝飾，并且搭配羽毛邊飾。

Caroline de Guitaut says: ‘The philosophy behind the design was to have a colour that wouldn’t in any way be representative of any of the countries participating in the Games and also to have striking, strong design lines, so the illusion of the Queen supposedly jumping [out of a plane at the ceremony] wouldn’t be lost.’
吉托說道：“使用桃粉色是因?yàn)樾枰粋€(gè)不代表任何參賽國家的顏色。這件衣服還需要擁有突出、強(qiáng)烈的線條，這樣當(dāng)女王的替身從飛機(jī)上跳下時(shí)才夠顯眼?！?/p>

英文來源：每日郵報(bào)
翻譯：王慧雯（中國日?qǐng)?bào)網(wǎng)愛新聞iNews譯者）
編審：yaning