入選米其林美食指南，哪怕只有一顆星，對(duì)大多數(shù)餐廳來(lái)說(shuō)都是無(wú)上的榮耀。但是韓國(guó)首爾的一名大廚卻不以為榮，反以為恥，甚至為此公開(kāi)起訴米其林。這是為何呢？

Some chefs dream their whole lives of winning a Michelin star. But not Eo Yun-gwon.

有些大廚一輩子都?jí)粝肽苴A得米其林的一顆星。但Eo Yun-gwon不是這樣的大廚。

The South Korean chef is reportedly suing Michelin for including his restaurant Ristorante Eo in their 2019 guide to Seoul, saying that he asked them not to. He is taking action under a South Korean law against public insult.

據(jù)報(bào)道，這位韓國(guó)大廚狀告米其林無(wú)視他的拒絕，將他的餐廳Ristorante Eo列入《2019米其林首爾指南》。他以韓國(guó)法律中的“公開(kāi)侮辱罪”起訴米其林。

On November 15, Eo announced on his Facebook page that he had lodged a public insult criminal complaint against Michelin Travel Partner in the Seoul Central District Prosecutor's Office the same day.

11月15日，Eo在他的臉書頁(yè)面宣布，當(dāng)天他已經(jīng)向首爾中央地區(qū)檢察官辦公室以公開(kāi)侮辱罪對(duì)米其林旅游合作伙伴提出了起訴。

"I have filed a criminal complaint against Michelin Guide's behavior of forcibly listing [restaurants] against their will and without a clear criteria," he wrote.

他寫道：“我已經(jīng)對(duì)米其林指南提出刑事訴訟，控告其違反餐廳意愿強(qiáng)行將餐廳列入美食指南，且沒(méi)有明確的評(píng)判標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。”

"Including my restaurant Eo in the corrupt book is a defamation against members of Eo and the fans. Like a ghost, they did not have a contact number and I was only able to get in touch through email. Although I clearly refused listing of my restaurant, they included it at their will this year as well."

“將我的餐廳Eo列入這本爛書是對(duì)Eo成員和粉絲的侮辱。他們就像幽靈一般沒(méi)有聯(lián)系號(hào)碼，我只好通過(guò)電子郵件和他們?nèi)〉寐?lián)系。盡管我已明確拒絕，他們今年還是隨心所欲地將我的餐廳列入了指南?！?/p>

defamation[?def??me??n]: n. 誹謗；中傷

In particular, Eo takes issue with the way that Michelin, which is legendarily tight-lipped about its process, judges restaurants.

尤其讓Eo不滿的是米其林對(duì)其評(píng)級(jí)過(guò)程守口如瓶的“傳奇”方式。

In another Facebook post, this one dated November 13, Eo wrote, "There are thousands of restaurants in Seoul that are on the same level or better and more honest than those listed on the Michelin guide. It is a sad joke that a mere 170 of them are representing Seoul."

在發(fā)布于11月13日的另一個(gè)臉書帖子上，Eo寫道：“和米其林指南上的餐廳相比，首爾有數(shù)千家餐廳的水平與之持平甚至更高，而且更誠(chéng)信，但卻只有170家餐廳可以代表首爾，這真是一個(gè)可悲的笑話。”

According to Eo's Facebook page, he emailed Michelin asking them to remove his restaurant from the guide in all categories and demanded that they explain the rating criteria.

根據(jù)Eo的臉書頁(yè)面，他給米其林發(fā)電子郵件，要求米其林將他的餐廳從美食指南的所有類別中撤下，并要求他們解釋評(píng)價(jià)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。

He says he wrote in the email: "Numerous restaurants and the workers are wasting away their soul (money, time, and effort) to pursue the mirage that is Michelin star."

他說(shuō)他在電子郵件中寫道：“許多餐廳和員工都在浪費(fèi)自己的靈魂（金錢、時(shí)間、精力）追求米其林星級(jí)這個(gè)海市蜃樓?！?/p>

mirage[m??rɑ??]: n. 海市蜃樓；幻想，妄想

Michelin released its first Seoul restaurant guide in 2016. Their description of Ristorante Eo specifically cited the chef, stating that "each dish clearly demonstrates his insight into the integrity and simplicity of Italian cooking."

米其林于2016年發(fā)布了首部首爾餐廳指南。他們對(duì)Ristorante Eo餐廳的描述中特別提到了這位大廚，聲稱“每一道菜都清晰展現(xiàn)了他對(duì)意大利烹飪完整性和樸素性的洞察力。”

Eo told CNN by phone, "Michelin guide is a cruel system. It's the cruelest test in the world. It forces the chefs to work around a year waiting for a test [and] they don't know when it's coming."

Eo在電話中告訴CNN說(shuō)：“米其林指南是一套殘酷的系統(tǒng)。它是全世界最殘酷的測(cè)試。它迫使大廚們一整年都在辛苦等待一個(gè)不知何時(shí)會(huì)到來(lái)的測(cè)試。”

"It is humiliating to see my restaurant given a rating in that unwholesome book," Eo continued. The Michelin guide, he added, "is blinded by money and lacks philosophy."

Eo說(shuō)：“看到我的餐廳在那部爛書中獲評(píng)星級(jí)，我感到恥辱?！彼a(bǔ)充道，米其林指南“被金錢蒙蔽，缺乏思想”。

Although Eo's suit has already made news in the food world, South Korean criminal attorney Shin Ha-na says that the charges are unlikely to stick.

盡管Eo的起訴已經(jīng)在美食界成為了新聞，但韓國(guó)刑事律師Shin Ha-na說(shuō)，這項(xiàng)罪名不太可能成立。

"There needs to be an insulting statement that would cut down one's social standing," Shin explains to CNN. "Usually, there needs to be curse words. Since the guide didn't print profanity, I don't think the charge will stand."

Shin向CNN解釋道：“需要有貶低社會(huì)地位的侮辱性言辭，這項(xiàng)罪名才會(huì)成立。通常需要有咒罵性質(zhì)的話。因?yàn)槊灼淞种改仙蠜](méi)有印不雅言辭，我認(rèn)為這項(xiàng)罪名不會(huì)成立?！?/p>

However, Shin notes that if Michelin is found guilty, the company will be ordered to pay somewhere between 500,000 to 3 million won (in damages).

但是，Shin指出，如果米其林罪名成立，法院將令其支付50萬(wàn)到300萬(wàn)韓元（約合人民幣3000元到1.8萬(wàn)元）的賠償金。

Eo isn't the only chef taking issue with the famously secretive food reviewing guide.

Eo不是唯一一個(gè)看不慣以秘密考核美食聞名的米其林指南的廚師。

French chef Marc Veyrat also sued Michelin in 2019 -- but in his case, it was for taking a star away.

法國(guó)大廚馬克·維拉也在2019年起訴了米其林，不過(guò)他起訴是因?yàn)槊灼淞帜米吡艘活w星。

The Michelin Guide for France told Veyrat that they were docking one of his stars after reviewing his restaurant La Maison des Bois in the Alps.

《米其林法國(guó)指南》通知維拉說(shuō)，他們?cè)诳己肆司S拉在阿爾卑斯地區(qū)的博伊斯梅森餐廳后，決定摘掉一顆星。

dock[d?k]: v. 扣（分、錢等）

Marc Veyrat, for his part, claimed that the incident had to do with a misunderstanding about cheese -- the Michelin reviewer believed a souffle had been made of cheddar, while the chef said it was several other cheeses with saffron added to give it the yellow hue often associated with cheddar.

馬克·維拉則聲稱，這一事件與評(píng)審員對(duì)奶酪的誤解有關(guān)——米其林評(píng)審員認(rèn)為一道蛋奶酥是用切達(dá)干酪做成的，而大廚稱蛋奶酥是用幾種其他奶酪加上藏紅花做成，這才讓蛋奶酥有了形似切達(dá)干酪的黃顏色。

He added that he went into a deep depression following the star demotion. "I've been dishonored, I saw my team in tears," he told a French radio station.

他補(bǔ)充道，在餐廳被降級(jí)后，他陷入了深深的抑郁。他告訴一家法國(guó)電臺(tái)說(shuō)：“我聲名掃地，我看到我的團(tuán)隊(duì)在落淚?！?/p>

Veyrat's suit against Michelin will be heard in November in Nanterre, France.

維拉起訴米其林的聽(tīng)證會(huì)將于11月在法國(guó)南泰爾舉行。

No matter what happens with either lawsuit, though, it's clear that Eo isn't going anywhere.

無(wú)論兩起訴訟的結(jié)果如何，顯然Eo是不會(huì)動(dòng)搖的。

On his Facebook page, he wrote, "I will work hard to safeguard the integrity of our industry against garbage critics like Michelin or influencers or the media. I will continue my campaign against Michelin."

他在自己的臉書頁(yè)面上寫道：“我將努力捍衛(wèi)我們的行業(yè)完整性不受米其林、網(wǎng)紅或媒體等垃圾評(píng)論者的侵?jǐn)_。我會(huì)將抵制米其林的活動(dòng)進(jìn)行下去?！?/p>

11月18日，米其林公布了首版北京米其林指南“必比登推介”餐廳名單。上榜的15家餐廳中，除了北京本土風(fēng)格鮮明的豆汁、爆肚、涮羊肉等外，還有東南亞菜和浙江臺(tái)州菜?？蓻](méi)想到，這份名單卻在國(guó)內(nèi)社交網(wǎng)站上被不少吃貨們瘋狂吐槽。

有人質(zhì)疑餐廳評(píng)選的合理性，有人覺(jué)得米其林指南對(duì)北京美食以及背后的美食文化認(rèn)知不足，甚至還有人譏諷稱“這是‘米其林羞辱北京指南’”。

CNN網(wǎng)站援引一名微博用戶的評(píng)論稱：

"Whether a restaurant is good or not should be up to the individual's feelings. So why do we need such Western formalism to speak out for our Chinese restaurants?" 

“一家餐廳是好是壞取決于個(gè)人感覺(jué)，何需讓這種西方形式主義為中國(guó)餐廳代言？”

此次大董獲得一星餐廳，但并未出席頒獎(jiǎng)。大董創(chuàng)始人董振祥撰文反思了米其林對(duì)中國(guó)餐廳的評(píng)選。他指出米其林對(duì)于北京小吃更多的是獵奇的態(tài)度，這會(huì)讓國(guó)際社會(huì)以為中國(guó)老百姓的美食水平就是爆肚、下水和內(nèi)臟，而這顯然不是中國(guó)美食的主流和大雅。

他寫道，米其林發(fā)布北京小吃的立意，是討好北京市場(chǎng)、打開(kāi)局面；但也難逃其“逐臭”的美食思維，路走偏了，米其林就成了糟粕。

董振祥希望米其林評(píng)選對(duì)所在地美食有更深入的認(rèn)知，有更虛心的態(tài)度，把傲慢、無(wú)知和偏見(jiàn)剔除。

英文來(lái)源：CNN

翻譯&編輯：丹妮