租衣服穿可能并沒有你想象的那么環(huán)保。研究發(fā)現(xiàn)，服裝租賃過程中會產(chǎn)生大量排放物，對環(huán)境和氣候造成的有害影響相比回收、轉(zhuǎn)售衣服都更大。

A study has revealed that renting clothes, long touted as one of the “answers” to fashion’s sustainability crisis, is worse for the planet than throwing them away.

一項研究揭示，長久以來被奉為時裝業(yè)可持續(xù)發(fā)展危機解決之道的服裝租賃對地球更有害，不如直接丟棄衣服更環(huán)保。

The study, published by the Finnish scientific journal Environmental Research Letters assessed the environmental impact of five different ways of owning and disposing of clothing, including renting, resale and recycling.

發(fā)表在芬蘭科學(xué)期刊《環(huán)境研究快報》上的這項研究評估了5種擁有和處理衣服的不同方法對環(huán)境造成的影響，包括租賃、轉(zhuǎn)售和回收。

It found that renting clothes had the highest climate impact of all. The hidden environmental cost was found to be delivery and packaging costs. Renting involves a large amount of transportation, taking the clothes back and forth between the warehouse and the renter. Dry cleaning is also harmful to the environment.

研究發(fā)現(xiàn)，服裝租賃對氣候造成的影響最大。運送和包裝過程中都會產(chǎn)生隱性的環(huán)境成本。在庫房和租賃者之間來回運送服裝的運輸量很大。此外，干洗衣服對環(huán)境也有害。

Renting clothes has been thought of the sustainable and frugal alternative to fast fashion, popularised by companies such as Rent the Runway and public figures like Carrie Symonds, who rented her wedding dress and her outfits for the G7 conference. Gwyneth Paltrow is on the Rent the Runway board and Ralph Lauren has announced a rental range.

服裝租賃曾被認(rèn)為是替代快時尚的可持續(xù)又省錢的選擇，在租衣平臺Rent the Runway和凱莉·西蒙茲等公眾人物的推廣下走近了百姓的生活。凱莉·西蒙茲曾穿著租來的衣服舉行婚禮和出席七國集團峰會。明星格溫妮絲·帕特洛是Rent the Runway的董事之一，時裝品牌拉夫勞倫也宣布推出租衣服務(wù)。

The growing sector, which according to GlobalData is going to be worth ￡2.3bn by 2029, has been touted as a possible solution to fashion’s environmental crisis. A report by the World Economic Forum this year suggested that the industry generates 5% of global emissions.

GlobalData公司的數(shù)據(jù)顯示，2029年服裝租賃業(yè)的市值估計會增長到23億英鎊（約合人民幣206億元）。據(jù)稱服裝租賃業(yè)可以化解時裝產(chǎn)業(yè)的環(huán)境危機。然而，世界經(jīng)濟論壇今年的一份報告指出，服裝租賃業(yè)產(chǎn)生的碳排放量占到了全球排放量的5%。

The study found many rental brands misuse the term “circular economy” – the system where clothes are passed from person to person before being recycled – as a form of greenwashing.

研究發(fā)現(xiàn)，許多服裝租賃品牌都在濫用“循環(huán)經(jīng)濟”一詞作為漂綠手段。實際上，衣服從一個人傳給另一個人直至被回收才是真正的循環(huán)經(jīng)濟。

greenwashing: 由“綠色”（green，象征環(huán)保）和“漂白”（whitewash）合成的一個新詞。用來說明一家公司、政府或是組織以某些行為或行動宣示自身對環(huán)境保護的付出但實際上卻是反其道而行。

"Only regulation will solve that problem. No company, in any industry, will volunteer to take a loss for the sake of the planet. They’ll do so when it’s the law. The biggest obstacle is greed,” said Dana Thomas, author of Fashionopolis.

《時尚都市》作者丹娜·托馬斯稱：“只有法規(guī)才能解決這一問題。任何行業(yè)的任何一家公司都不會為了地球而自愿蒙受損失。只有在法律的強制下他們才會照做。最大的障礙是貪婪?！?/p>

The new study suggests that if rental companies change their logistics to make them more climate friendly, renting would, environmentally, be on a level with reselling. It also found that the most sustainable way to consume fashion is to buy fewer items and to wear them for as long as possible. “You want to be sustainable? Buy less, buy better,” Thomas said.

這項新研究指出，假如服裝租賃公司把自己的物流系統(tǒng)變得更環(huán)保，那么租賃對環(huán)境的影響將和轉(zhuǎn)售相當(dāng)。研究還發(fā)現(xiàn)，時裝消費最可持續(xù)的方式就是少買衣服，盡可能穿得久一些。托馬斯說：“你想要可持續(xù)？那就少買，要買就買好的?！?/p>

英文來源：衛(wèi)報

翻譯&編輯：丹妮